Discovering the Artistic Heritage of Broderies: Rare Pattern Book Portfolios

2/4/25

Libraries often house rare books. These special works are valued for their unique content, historical significance or sheer rarity, and may include limited editions, hand-bound manuscripts or works that capture the spirit of a particular time or culture. Libraries store them not only to preserve knowledge but also to give people access to materials that may otherwise be lost in history.

One interesting genre of rare books are illustrated portfolios, often dedicated to specific forms of art or craftsmanship. The Library’s Special Collections holds a series of embroidery portfolios showcasing textile patterns and folk motifs from around the world. Each of the books featured below were compiled by Henri Ernst, a Paris-based editor and publisher from the early 20th century. Operating in the scenic area of Montmartre, Paris, Ernst specialized in art and cultural publications, producing high-quality portfolios that captured various forms of traditional and folk art.

Follow along as we share translated descriptions of Ernst’s internationally published rare books, and present selections of the many illustrated textile plates included in these portfolios.

• Tapisseries et Étoffes Coptes – includes 47 illustrated plates
  
  Following the decline of the ancient Egyptian civilization, pre-modern Egyptians in the Nile Delta and lower region mingled with other groups, leading to the formation of the Coptic race. The Copts became skilled artisans and traders, particularly in textiles, supplying ancient people with their goods. Coptic art evolved through several influences. Initially, it featured intricate patterns on dark colors, outlined with fine white thread. Greek and Roman influences brought finer fabrics and purer compositions depicting scenes of hunting and war. Byzantine influence introduced bolder colors, more symbols and biblical scenes, while Sassanid Persian influence brought horizontal patterns and the repetition of motifs.

Pl. 1

• Broderies et décoration populaires Tchéco-Slovaques  – includes 34 illustrated plates
  
  Embroidery pieces from Czechoslovak often reflect the former country’s rich cultural heritage, with distinct regional styles that indicate origin, purpose and the wearer’s status. Some designs date back to the 12th century, incorporating Renaissance and Rococo influences, while others feature bold colors, gold and silver thread or metallic sequins. Slovakia is known for its especially vibrant embroidery, while Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic) used urban influences. Local materials like linen, wool and silk were used to preserve traditional textile folk art.

Pl. 14

• Broderies Populaires Espagnoles – includes 30 illustrated plates
  
  Deeply influenced by Persian, Arab and Oriental traditions, Spanish textiles and embroidery have developed a distinct artistic identity characterized by intricate figurative and floral motifs, rather than rigid geometric patterns. Techniques such as the Majorca region’s lengua fabric, the Valdeverdeja, Toledo region’s openwork and La Alpujarra, Andalusia region’s fabric showcase centuries-old craftsmanship, often incorporating embroidery methods dating back to ancient Egypt. A defining feature of these works is the restrained color palette – shades of grayish black, navy blue or faded reds on cream backgrounds – contrasting with the bright hues typically associated with Spain’s sunny regions.

• U.R.S.S. broderies: Russes, Tartares, Arméniennes  – includes 40 illustrated plates
  
  These pieces, often reflecting Russian folk art, include towels, bed sheets, embroidered handkerchiefs, also known as chirinkos, and decorative items like curtains, pillowcases, blouses and aprons. The embroidery techniques used included cross-stitch, star-shaped stitches and knotted threads, primarily in red or white cotton on cream-colored backgrounds. Some fabrics, called naboïka, are hand-printed with carved wooden blocks using vegetable dyes. The motifs featured in these pieces often reflect foreign religious influences, such as Buddhist temples, lions, peacocks, swastikas and mythical creatures, which reflect the blend of Russian folk traditions with Persian and Byzantine styles. The use of color varies by region, with Ukraine and Tatar areas favoring more vibrant colors, while Armenia and Crimea tend to favor subtler, more harmonious tones.

• Tapis Roumains  – includes 34 illustrated plates
  
  Textile art remains common in Romania, with women creating tapestries, primarily in the Kilim style for decorative purposes in homes. These tapestries, often meant to be displayed rather than walked on, evolved from simple geometric designs to more intricate patterns framed by borders. Regional variations include diamond shapes from Wallachia and Moldavia and floral motifs from the Bessarabia and Oltenia regions. Oltenian tapestries, known for their bright colors and regular patterns, represent the height of Romanian craftsmanship.

• Broderies Hindoues – includes 38 illustrated plates
  
  Hindu embroidery, largely created by women in the intimate settings of their homes, reflects the artistic aspirations of everyday people, offering a more genuine and sincere expression. The designs are comprised of braids, costume pieces and upholstery items, often featuring simple floral patterns, birds and human figures in stylized, geometric arrangements. The embroidery uses a limited range of techniques, including chain and loose running stitches, typically in vibrant colors like red, orange and green, on materials such as canvas or satin.

As part of the Library’s Special Collections, our Digital Collections provide access to many of these rare books through an online archive of scanned materials in a high-resolution format, allowing users to magnify and explore the intricate details of each book’s portfolio. Published before 1929, these rare pattern books offer endless creative inspiration in graphic design, fashion, interior decor and crafts.

High-resolution images of the individual illustrated plates are also available by submitting an online request form. Stay tuned for more unique additions found in the Rare Book, Manuscript and Print Selections collection. Happy exploring!